Texture Management Services Based on Client Experience
Updated: Sep 28
RELAXERS
Relaxers are first because they have been around the longest and are the only "texture management" service I offer that permanently alter the natural curl pattern by breaking the disulfide bonds of the hair. Relaxers have been on the hot seat lately due to one study of 34,000 women done in 2022 connecting chemical straighteners to certain cancers (please see previous blog post). There are continuing studies but all involved emphasize that "correlation is not causation".
I have done over 20,000 relaxers over 30+ years in the industry. It is by far the most popular "texture management" service on my menu even throughout the natural hair movement. In the 90's wet sets were used to keep relaxed hair stylish and healthy (fingerwaves, roller sets, updos, perm & flex rod sets, etc.) Today Olaplex, K18, Keratin Overlays and products like Epres keep relaxed hair on the right track.
The relaxers I use do not list any parabens, phthalates, endocrine disruptors or formaldehyde emitting ingredients. Precautions need to be taken by the client in the days prior to and of the service to prevent irritation. No scratching, rough brushing, tight hats or shampooing 3 days before. If you are prone to burning, thoroughly oil your scalp (not the hair) the night before. Avoid caffeine, vigorous exercise, headbands, scalp scratching & patting or anything that will aggravate your scalp the day of your service. I do my best to thoroughly base the scalp and protect any previously treated hair. The goal is to keep the relaxer away from the scalp for as long as possible but eventually it gets there because normally clients want that area processed.
I use Affirm Classic & FiberGuard Relaxers. I carry but DO NOT recommend a sensitive scalp version (SSV) due to dryness and calcium deposits. (a minority owned brand, Dr. Ali is the best!)
I still use Mizani Classic Rhelaxer because clients request it but since Loreal took over it is not the same. I also carry but DO NOT recommend the Butter Blend SSV for previously state reasons.
I use Design Essentials Honey Nectar Time Release Relaxer because it reminds me most of the discontinued Designer's Touch Relaxer by Lusters (a black owned brand)
When any hair service is done incorrectly scalp issues and even hair loss can occur. If you find yourself in need of a thorough scalp analysis by a Certified Trichologists please reach out to my co-worker Sophia.
SMOOTHING TREATMENTS
I started doing Brazilian Blowouts regularly around 2009. The results were wonderful but no matter what I tried the fumes were crazy! Burning/watery eyes & nose, coughing....all the negatives. After further education, applications got a little better and other smoothing treatments were introduced.
The smoothing treatments in this chart were chosen after dozens of classes and thousands of services. The rankings are based strictly on treatments booked over the last10 years. The feedback is from a decade of actual client notes.
The best choice depends on hair texture, desired smoothness, curl retention, maintenance habits, etc. These treatments are great choices for transitioning out of relaxer or extending the time between relaxer services.
Some Coppola clients may be wondering why the treatment is not listed below. I haven't been offering it long enough and plan on removing the service from my menu because the active ingredients are very similar to Avlon Texture Release (ATR). While a TikTok of me performing the service brought a lot of you to me, most have transitioned to ATR.
My co-worker Elaine will continue to offer the Coppola Treatment along with specializing extensions & Silk Press services.
Keratin Complex KCExpress has the most bookings in the category because it is a hybrid treatment. This is what is used as a keratin topcoat for relaxers, as a color enhancer and sealant and as a 6-week frizz fighting, strengthening polisher.
AVLON TEXTURE RELEASE IS THE LEADER IF WE DO NOT FACTOR IN THE KERATIN TOP COAT SERVICE FOR RELAXED HAIR.
The Environmental Working Group's (EWG) database was used to research the ingredients on this list because Yuka lists everything in this blog as Poor.
Ranked By 10 Years of Actual Bookings
Client Feedback and Witnessed Results From Over 2,500 Smoothing Treatments Performed
1
Keratin Complex KCExpress
aka keratin topcoat
Clients experience less frizz, more body, enhanced shine, increased manageability and enhanced color on the day of the service. There will be noticeable strengthening with body, shine and slight smoothing. Length Retention.
Lasts up to 6 weeks
No pins, clips, ponytail holders or moisture for 8 hours.
Can Color the same day and can acutally extend and enhance.
Amount of heat needed depending on desired result. From 1 to 4 passes 380°-400°
Active Ingredients: Hydrolyzed Keratin, Timonacic acid, Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone.
EWG rating of 5
2
Avlon Texture Release
First day client has reduced frizz, elongated curls and swelling. Easier detangling, faster styling, improved manage-ability with softened more moisturized texture.
Lasts 2 to 3 months.
No pins, clips, ponytail holders or moisture for 24 hours.
CAN NOT color the same day.
The amount of heat is adjustable depending on desired result. From 0 to 7 passes 350°-450°.
Active Ingredients: Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine, Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Avocado Oil, Phytosterols, Amla & Allantoin.
EWG rating of 5
3
Keratin Complex KCMax
Immediately smooths the cuticle, reduces frizz, creates a sleeker finish, strengthens, adds body and shine.
Lasts 2 to 3 months.
NO WAITING PERIOD for shampooing, sweating, ponytails, etc.
Can color the same day and can actually extend and enhance the results.
The amount of heat used is adjustable depending on desired result. From 7 to 12 passes 380°-450°.
Active Ingredients: Hydrolyzed keratin, Methylene Glycol (emits formaldehyde when heated).
EWG rating of 10 (their worst)
4
Design Essentials STS
Hair resists swelling, frizzing while maintaing texture and providing manageability.
Lasts up to 6 weeks.
NO WAITING PERIOD for shampooing, sweating, ponytails, etc.
CAN NOT color the same day.
The amount of heat used is adjustable depending on desired result. From 1 to 2 passes 340°-400°.
Active Ingredients: Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine, Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Silk and Wheat Proteins.
EWG Rating of 4
5
Brazilian Blowout Original
Clients immediately see shiny, smooth, frizz free hair with lots of body, more flexible styling options, easier detangling, faster styling & length retention.
Lasts 2 to 3 months.
NO WAITING PERIOD for shampooing, sweating, ponytails, etc.
Can color the same day.
The amount of heat used is adjustable depending on desired result. From 4 to 16 passes 380°-450°.
Active Ingredients: Amino Acids and Methylene Glycol (emits formaldehyde when heated).
EWG Rating of 10 (their worst).
All of the above treatments can be cumulative if done every 2-3 months. The new growth (the roots) are the main focus when you get the treatments regularly. This preserves the strength, length and density at the ends.
AVOID Sulfates and Sodium Chloride as they can strip these treatments.
These services can help blend natural hair with extensions and help prevent the dreaded length difference when hair is extracted.
With these treatments the Hydrogen Bonds of the hair are temporarily rearranged. However, repeated use of very high heat can cause the disulfide bond to permanently break as with relaxers. Less heat is needed to style hair when using these treatments
Try setting your hair on tension rollers, brush out, once dry wrap and/or flat iron the roots at no more than 380 degrees if needed.
An air wrap type dryer is a good purchase as well. The comb attachment can be used for a tension blow dry then the air wrap wand can give a voluminous blow out effect.
A PERSONAL NOTE
Many of you may know my father passed away this past March due to complications from a stroke and Parkinson's disease. I lost my mother over a decade ago due to complications from a stroke and Lupus. It seems every day one of my clients tells me that a relative, a friend or they have been stricken with a brain or heart condition.
I am sharing this with you because my nephew, Jeff, is running in the New York Marathon this year for Team Heart & Stroke. Jeff's father died when he was a child of an aneurysm and his mother had a debilitating stroke that has had lingering effects on her life. I am sure you know someone in your life that has been touched by a cardiac or neurological condition. I realize times are hard for all for us but if you can spare anything, please help Jeff's team with a tax-deductible donation to the American Heart Association.
Many Thanks!!!
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