The correlation between health risks and the use of Relaxers and Smoothing Treatments have been in the media a lot lately.
Finding a Correlation Does Not Mean Causation!
Apologies if this seems long and preachy but bear with me. There are some decent links for a deeper dive if you are interested.
As a thank you for reading my first blog post receive a complimentary Olaplex, K18 or Redken Acidic Bonding Treatment ($50 value) with any Color, Relaxer or Smoothing Service booked by 7/16/24. Just book the service online and we will determine which treatment is best for you the day of your appointment. There are still a few July slots available and the schedule is bookable up to 45 days out. Be sure to add yourself to the waitlist should there not be the availability you want. I look forward to seeing you this summer!!!
The topic of hair relaxer has been a complex issue for women of color since its inception. I say women of color because as a cosmetologist I have had the privilege of relaxing not just ADOS or African clients but those from the Middle East, South Asia, Brazil and more. I have heard similar stories from them all. From being traumatized as a child from a bad relaxer experience, to a present-day need to have a straight look before returning home for a holiday or event. The relaxer conversation connects us through race, ethnicity, identity, politics and lastly our perception of beauty.
We have merged out of using relaxer as an assimilation tool. Today women relax their out of convenience. About a decade ago clients began to question me about news of relaxers being connected to health issues that effect mostly black women. Back then there were no studies available regarding relaxer use but there were a few small ones on how the toxins in hair color and other beauty products impact all women's health.
Finally, in 2022 The Sister Study released a report connecting relaxer use in black women to a 4% increased risk of uterine cancer (there is a 1.6% chance with no relaxer use according to this study). Around 2019 this group did a similar study on “Hair Dye” which increased the risk of breast cancer by 9%. The Sister Study Site has great information most of which states additional studies are needed for more definitive conclusions. Just click on the links throughout to read more.
While it is great that black women are finally getting the research we deserve on issues that effect our health....we have to consider the basis of the result and also question why now?
It is important to note that this study took no information on a particular ingredient, relaxer brand or application method (by a licensed professional or at home). When relaxer is done properly according to manufacturer instructions any adverse issues will be greatly reduced. The ingredients in the relaxer brands that I use, Mizani and Affirm, have low hazard scores using the Environmental Working Group (EWG) Skin Deep rating system.
The Lawsuits began immediately following the release of this study. It seems lawyers are focusing on the manufacturers of at home relaxer kits and those marketed towards children. Upon testing some companies did not include a complete list of ingredients on the packaging leaving out some pretty toxic stuff. Up for debate may be that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does NOT require certain “incidental ingredients” and “trade secret” ingredients to be listed on consumer packaging (including trace amounts of chemicals that may release formaldehyde gas). Relaxer kits like Dark & Lovely and ORS were mentioned in the lawsuits and are rated highly hazardous by the EWG. The New York Times recently did a lengthy article discussing this along with other black hair products and their issues.
Before this study women were returning to relaxer out of convenience. This was not about the need to look European or to conform. The pioneers of the most recent natural hair movement of the early 2000's were maturing. Long Wash Days no longer fit into busy schedules that included advancing careers and expanding families. There was a need for quick easy hair care options. It helped that today relaxed hair can be kept healthier than ever with modern treatments that work in every layer of the strand building bonds (in the cortex), reconnecting broken polypeptide (keratin) chains (in the medulla) and balancing the PH (sealing the cuticle). The downside to this has more to do with money than the impact to our health.
Imagine the reduction of profit should companies have to shift back to manufacturing relaxers due to folks giving up their natural journey. The Black Hair Care Industry has an estimated worth of over $9 billion globally (does not include extension hair sales). This is primarily because we are always looking for a new miracle product that will give us that dream result. We embrace being "natural" while layering on product after product, twisting, coiling, curling or otherwise altering the way our hair flows from our scalp.
When we recall the days that relaxers were queen (pre-2010's), we used much less product. Usually a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in & maybe an oil sheen and/or crème hair dressing. If we did roller sets we used a setting lotion, that’s it. Fast forward to now and think about how many different products we have in our cabinet. We went from being the underserved minority to product overwhelm. You do not need dozens of products to care for your hair.
While the products we use vary throughout the diaspora (in Africa relaxer use is still on the rise) it is clear we are the target market these companies desire. Companies that have no shame in swallowing and restructuring the once black-owned product lines that our community adore.
As for the formaldehyde ban, last year California announced a future ban on that and the formaldehyde releasing ingredient methylene glycol for use in cosmetics. The FDA has been issuing warnings on its use in Keratin Treatments for years and may prohibit it nationwide this year.
Keratin Treatments came out in the early 2000's setting off the Smoothing Treatment category. At first, these services were used primarily by white women to defrizz, loosen curls and strengthen. Because of their effectiveness popularity exploded despite the fumes and hefty price tags.
Due to timing, the media is conflating the potential health risks of relaxer and the toxicity of the formaldehyde released during some smoothing treatments.
Most modern Relaxers DO NOT contain formaldehyde because it is a gas that when released is toxic. Some of the most effective smoothing treatments emit formaldehyde during the blow dry and flat iron process.
Those who have gotten the Brazilian Blowout or Keratin Complex’s KCMax with me know how uncomfortable the experience can be for some. The problem is the products are game changing when it comes to length retention and manageability. The good thing is there are some great alternatives...a couple of which were designed specifically for our textures (Avlon Texture Release or Design Essentials STS).
Perhaps we can embrace whatever styles and treatments that make our lives easier. Wear your hair however you are comfortable but focus on the products that sit on our scalp/skin for long periods. Skin being our largest organ absorbs whatever we put on it like a sponge. While formaldehyde releasing treatments are potentially harmful when in use, allowing synthetic braiding hair to seep carcinogens into our bodies for months is likely more of an issue. Even if you soak this hair prior to installing it is still plastic sitting on your scalp leaking cancer causing endocrine disruptors into your system. Brands like pre-stretched EZBraid made from spectra fiber is a little better in regards to comfort but it is still a synthetic fiber.
The key is to pick our poisons wisely since some of the most popular natural and "clean" beauty brands have moderate hazard ratings for some of their products with the EWG. Mielle, Pattern, Camiele Rose, Giovanni and even Innersense have moderate hazard ratings for some of their products with the EWG. Research everything you put on and in your body so you know how to counter whatever the exposure.
My goal as your Healthy Hair Care Provider is to offer Texture Management Services that make at home care easier. Encouraging a once or twice a week cleansing ritual that keeps your scalp pristine and fertile while cultivating strong nourished hair.
Let me know what our next Blog post should be about. Lately, I have been in the Hygral Fatigue and Demodex (the little mites nibbling on your follicle right now) rabbit hole. Also, why do we go gray in the front first? I can find nothing on that phenomenon. Anyway, let me know what interests most.
Receive a complimentary Olaplex, K18 or Redken Acidic Bonding Treatment ($50 value) with any Color, Relaxer or Smoothing Service booked through 7/16/24. The schedule is bookable up to 45 days out. I look forward to seeing you this summer!!!
If you made it this far thanks for reading!!!
Congrats on your fantastic blog, Tamara! I learned a lot! And I'm really impressed by your ability to interpret the science critically. The blog promises to help a lot of people. -- Peggy C.
Tamara! This is amazing insight! Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us!!!