Divest From the Extension Industrial Complex this "Protective Style" Season With a Minimalist Approach to Wash Day...

I have had the good fortune of working with several new clients in the past month.

Hopefully, sharing a bit from these very different interactions will help you figure out how to fine tune your own at home ritual.

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The main question I get is what products do you recommend? I always ask what do you already have and how old is it? Most of us have tons of products that we need to finish before we move on to the next. Unless you find that a product is too old or you are allergic try to make it work. For example, if a shampoo is too drying use it as a clarifying first shampoo then follow with a moisturizing shampoo. If a conditioner does not have enough slip combine it with one that you may find is too heavy on its own. There are ways to make things work, especially in this uncertain economy. Always check the PAO (Period After Opening) on all your products.

Case for Smoothing Treatments

One new client, a female in her late 20's, made the decision to stop wearing wigs and weaves after suffering traction alopecia with breakage around her hairline and leave out area. She acknowledged several habits that led to her hair loss. Among them, not completely drying the foundation braids under sewn in weaves and wigs. Doing this leads to fungus on the scalp and smelly mildew in the hair (making hair dry tangled and unmanageable). She decided to release all extensions and utilize a Smoothing Treatment to make her hair easier to manage at home. These treatments reduce the time spent detangling, shampooing and drying while elongating curls & filling/coating the strands with keratin and/or amino acids.

HER HOMEWORK:

• Make a dermatology appointment for prescription strength help to activate the damaged follicles. In the interim she will try topical minoxidil, Nutrafol supplements and scalp serum

• Shampoo at least once a week with sulfate free products to prolong the smoothing treatment and maintain scalp health.

• Invest in a good dryer with a comb attachment, a hood dryer for treatments & to dry twist or rod sets and a ceramic iron.

• Come to the salon for quarterly maintenance.

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SCALP TREATMENT AND FLAT TWIST   A new female client in her mid 30's came in for a scalp treatment and Flat Twist. She had shoulder length natural hair that she maintained herself with wash & gos, twist-outs and different synthetic braid styles. Her issue is flaky scalp and dry hair due to wetting her hair everyday and allowing it to air dry when not in braids or twists. Not drying the hair and scalp in a timely fashion can cause many different scalp conditions and hygral fatigue.  We decided on a Nioxin scalp treatment, a micro mist protein treatment and a protective flat twist.

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HER HOMEWORK:

• Make a dermatology appointment for prescription strength help to diagnose and treat her scalp issues. In the interim she will shampoo with Nizoral as a first shampoo and a moisturizing shampoo 2nd. Do a protein treatment once a month.

• Shampoo at least once a week and no matter the style sit under a hood dryer for at least 15 minutes to allow scalp and hair to dry.

• Avoid protective styles that are too tight and done with synthetic hair. Aside from being toxic synthetic fibers tends to dry the hair out and leave a coating on the strands that causes all sorts of problems.

• Come to the salon for quarterly maintenance.

  
  

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Relaxers Are Still Popular

A new relaxer client came in to do her roots and trim up her pixie cut. She has experienced irritation in the past with relaxers and has some thinning in the crown and around the perimeter. Since hair loss runs in her family, she expressed concern. She experienced no irritation after we thoroughly based her scalp, coated the previously relaxed hair with Olaplex 2 for protection and used Affirm mild relaxer. K18 mask was applied as a cutting agent. Finally, we used Influance foam to mold, a little K18 oil and Kenra spray to finish.

HER HOMEWORK:

• Make a dermatology appointment for prescription strength help to activate the damaged follicles. In the interim she will try topical minoxidil, Nutrafol supplements and scalp serum

• Shampoo at least once a week using a shampoo that Blocks DHT as a first shampoo to help with thinning.

• Come to the salon every six weeks for a relaxer and cut.

  
  

Shampooing Every Week is Basic Hygiene!

The clients with the healthiest hair are the ones who take responsibility for their weekly maintenance. Knowing how to shampoo, condition and do a quick simple style should be as fundamental as brushing your teeth. We turn to "protective styles" to make life easier, but we still have to cleanse our scalp regularly.

It seems that most braiders today cannot braid without using a ton of gel which can cause scalp issues. Champion boxers Amanda Serrano and Gervonta Davis have had to cancel or forfeit fights because the product used to braid mixed with sweat causing their eyes to burn.

I came across this great short of a gentleman shampooing his cornrows. His technique is great. I am neutral regarding the products he uses but his technique stands out. Maybe shampoo in the shower to make things easier. This will work for individual braids, twists, crochet, weaves etc. Always dry your scalp and braids/twists in a timely fashion (4 hours max).